Travel Guides and Stories

Tranquil Western Australia

Aside from Cape Leeuwin to the south, there’s another famous, doable-in-a-day attraction east of Perth: Wave Rock, near Hyden—about 350km one-way from Perth, with even fewer towns along the road. Driving there in summer is tough: heading east in the morning, the sun blazes at you; heading back west in the afternoon, you’re still getting cooked. The summer sun in WA is so intense it can make you dizzy, so we eventually gave up on that spot and chose a different route: north to Nambung National Park for The Pinnacles.    
   D1 Perth–Cervantes: After a rest in Perth, we began our journey north to The Pinnacles, about 250km north of Perth. Compared to the south, this drive offers completely different scenery—still less than 100km from the coast, but the landscape is vast, barren, and wild, reminiscent of China’s Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

A “national park” here just means putting up a sign at the entrance…

An unpaved track carved by off-roaders runs out to the endless outback

If you plan to go north, be sure to fill up in Perth—there are few petrol stations, and prices only get higher. Also, start early and aim to reach Cervantes (the town closest to The Pinnacles) before noon. There’s only one motel in town, about 40 rooms, which a single tour group could fill. Best to book ahead, but if you haven’t, arrive early—there’s usually 1–2 rooms left. Heading north feels like entering the desert, but the motel’s standard is just as good as the city’s, with a nice swimming pool—reminds me of the difference between accommodations on the Tibetan Plateau and here: one sign of a developed country! Motel pool:

Cervantes is small but well-equipped. First stop: the information center. Staff told us the Pinnacles were close—just keep driving down the main road and turn in at the next junction. On the way, there are two small attractions on side roads—unpaved, but any car can manage if you go slow. The first is a lake, with an eco-friendly boardwalk made of sustainable materials, elevated above the ground to minimize environmental impact. There are viewing platforms and signs. The lake was once part of the ocean; as the land rose, it got cut off and shrank, now with a salinity about 1.5 times that of the sea. It’s small—walking around takes 20–30 minutes.

Up close, you’ll see dome-shaped stromatolites made by bacteria and minerals accumulating on their surfaces—these “rocks” keep growing!

Walk the lake edge and watch the white foam on the shore—caused by the high salt and mineral content.

After circling the lake, head back and take the second side road up to a viewpoint where you can see the ocean and Cervantes. Then, back to the main road, and in just ten minutes, you’ll reach the turnoff for The Pinnacles park. The entrance fee is $11 per person, good for all-day entry (expires at midnight). It’s recommended to visit once during the day and again at sunset; sunrise is also amazing if you’re keen.    
   The Pinnacles were once tree roots—the acid in the roots helped calcium minerals stick to them and petrify, and as time and wind stripped away the sand, the “roots” were exposed, forming the stone pillars. This kind of formation isn’t unique to WA, but here is the most concentrated.

Walking among the Pinnacles, the stone pillars scattered across the desert are like a forest—truly amazing.

There are two ways to tour the park: drive or walk. There are no real roads or boardwalks inside, just gravel tracks for cars.

No boardwalks or formal walking paths, just the map at the entrance and “guide posts” inside the park (see pic below). At every turn, there’s a post with a little paw print—follow the paw marks to stay on the trail.

Thanks to this eco-friendly approach, the park feels barely touched by humans; you really feel you’re entering a magical, natural world.

At sunset, the whole park is bathed in a mysterious light.

The sunset-lit pillars look a bit like the statues of Easter Island.

The Pinnacles in silhouette at dusk—desolate and mysterious.

Pinnacles “adventure”

D2 Cervantes–Perth: On day two, we took the coastal highway back—very little traffic. Fuel in Cervantes is expensive, and there’s no petrol station for 100km after you leave. After 100km you reach Lancelin, where it’s cheaper, but then it’s another long stretch with no stations. So, in WA, always plan your petrol stops carefully—if you run out, you’ll have a hard time, as the roads are empty and it’s wilderness beyond. The sightseeing along this stretch is less varied—some white sand beaches and viewpoints, but similar landscape all the way. In under three hours, we were back in Perth.    
   Perth is a tourist hotspot—modern skyscrapers and countryside charm. The city is split by the Swan River. St. George’s Terrace on the north bank is the financial, commercial, and government hub, while Hay Street nearby is the shopping center. Black swans, rare elsewhere, are common here—gathering gracefully and preening, earning Perth the nickname “City of Black Swans,” even featured on the WA tourism logo.

Kings Park sits atop Mt. Eliza on the Swan River, sprawling over 400 hectares and covering the whole hilltop—so many tall trees, truly spectacular. The design keeps much of the wild, natural feel—there are old sightseeing trams, forest walks, and a real sense of returning to nature. But there are also modern facilities for visitors: the famous 5-star Frasers Restaurant, BBQs, and a lookout that’s the best spot for a panoramic view of Perth. Kings Park blends nature and modernity in a surprisingly harmonious way. The drive into the park is lined with towering trees—such a vibe!

Entering the park, you can overlook downtown Perth.

In summer, the water is dotted with yachts.

World War I memorial—if you stand on top, can you touch the clouds? :P

These blue skies, white clouds, and forests remind me of another summer beauty on the water—Stockholm.

Strolling the park, you experience the harmony of wild nature and modern design, and can learn a lot from the info boards everywhere. This giant tree was brought from the Northern Territory (another Australian state); doesn’t it look like a tree from the African savannah? That’s because it’s a close relative of African species. In ancient times, Australia, Africa, and Antarctica were one supercontinent, so many plants are related across these lands.

A photographer is taking couple photos under this huge tree—such a romantic scene!

The lush trees are full of life.

Imagine sitting right there, and time stands still… :)

The street trees lining the boulevards are tall and straight, and amazingly, the bark is very hard and smooth, staying cool even after a whole day in the sun. The last rays of sunset on these trees are mesmerizing (this tree looks a bit like an African baobab).

At dusk, many locals come to Kings Park for a picnic. For West Australians, connecting with nature is essential to life.

As the sun sets, we strolled out of the towering avenues of Kings Park, while many locals were heading in for their evening picnic. With such clear skies, the deep blue bay, and people lazing on the grass, I couldn’t help but reflect on everything I’d seen in Australia over three weeks. I’m drawn to their laid-back lifestyle—eight hours work, eight hours rest, eight hours leisure. We chase material things and fame, but in the end, isn’t it all for a better life? Being close to and in harmony with nature—that’s the highest quality of life. Perth’s dawn is also beautiful: the huge AirAsia jet glows red and white in the morning sun. Goodbye, Australia! Because of floods and cyclones, I didn’t make it to Queensland; for lack of time, I missed the Northern Territory, so the Great Barrier Reef, Heart Reef, Surfers Paradise, and Uluru are left for next time, still waiting as dream destinations. I look forward to returning to enjoy the fresh sea breeze and crystal blue skies here— I will be back!